Exploring Wensleydale: A Journey Through Cheese, Charm, and Countryside
- jillcrowson66
- Jul 17
- 4 min read
Tucked away in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, Wensleydale is a valley full of rich history, breathtaking landscapes, traditional markets, and—of course—world-famous cheese. From cascading waterfalls and ancient castles to red squirrels and cobbled market towns, Wensleydale is a dream destination for explorers, foodies, and families alike.
A Valley Carved by Nature and Time
Wensleydale is one of the few Yorkshire Dales not named after its river. Instead, it takes its name from the historic village of Wensley, the valley's former market town. The valley's true lifeblood is the River Ure, which gave rise to its old name, Yoredale. This wide, open dale is marked by softly rounded hillocks—remnants of glacial retreat—and lush pastures ideal for dairy farming.
Dominated by the gentle peaks of Addlebrough (481 m) in the upper dale and Penhill (526 m) in the lower dale, Wensleydale is a geologist’s and walker’s paradise, its landscape underpinned by the Yoredale Group of Carboniferous rocks.
Explore the Wensleydale Cheese that Conquered the World
No visit to Wensleydale would be complete without a taste of its most famous product: Yorkshire Wensleydale Cheese. Its story is one of resilience and local pride.
While cheese-making in the area dates back to the 12th century, 1897 marked a turning point when Edward Chapman, a local corn and provisions merchant, established the first commercial creamery in Hawes. However, the industrial depression of the 1930s brought challenges. In 1935, Kit Calvert, a local businessman, rallied the community to save the Creamery from closure.
Ownership changed hands several times—from the Milk Marketing Board in 1966 to Dairy Crest in 1970. But in 1992, a passionate group of ex-managers and a local businessman completed a management buyout. With the help of just 11 staff, Wensleydale cheese was once again handcrafted in time for Christmas.
Today, the Wensleydale Creamery handcrafts over 20 varieties of cheese and employs more than 200 people, contributing significantly to the local economy. A visit offers a behind-the-scenes look at cheese-making, a tasting room, and a cheese shop bursting with local delights.
Wensleydale Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Wonder
Wensleydale is known for its beautiful waterfalls, each with a character of its own:
Aysgarth Falls: A spectacular series of stepped waterfalls.
Hardraw Force: The highest single-drop waterfall in England.
Cauldron Falls: Tucked in West Burton, immortalised by artist J.M.W. Turner.
Mill Gill Falls (Askrigg) and Cotter Force (with wheelchair access) are peaceful year-round spots.
Semer Water, the largest natural lake in the Dales, invites anglers, swimmers, and sailors to its calm waters.
Wildlife lovers will enjoy the Red Squirrel Trail near Hawes, where conservation efforts are helping these elusive native creatures make a comeback.
Charming Villages and Market Towns
Hawes
The bustling town of Hawes is the hub of Upper Wensleydale. Along with the Creamery, visitors can enjoy the Dales Countryside Museum, browse local shops, and relax in friendly cafés.
Bainbridge and Askrigg
Further down the valley, Bainbridge boasts Roman roots as the site of Virosidum Fort, while Askrigg, just across the Ure, gained fame as the fictional home of James Herriot in All Creatures Great and Small.
Wensley and Leyburn
The village of Wensley received a Royal Charter in 1202, allowing it to host markets. Though the plague of 1563 forced survivors to resettle in Leyburn, Wensley remains historically significant. Leyburn, now the main town in lower Wensleydale, hosts a lively market every Friday in its cobbled squares.
Jervaulx Abbey
A short trip brings you to the peaceful ruins of Jervaulx Abbey, nestled beside the River Ure. Privately owned but open to the public, the site invites quiet reflection—with an honesty box helping support its upkeep.
Castle Bolton and Nappa Hall
Wensleydale is steeped in stories. Bolton Castle, built by Richard le Scrope in the late 14th century, once held Mary, Queen of Scots captive for six months in 1568. The nearby Shawl walk offers panoramic views and the legendary “Queen’s Gap” escape spot.
Not far away, Nappa Hall, a fortified manor built by Sir Thomas Metcalfe, stands as a reminder of the influential Metcalfe family, who held power in the dale for over five centuries.
A Touch of the Unexpected
One hidden gem not to miss is the Aysgarth Edwardian Rock Garden, commissioned by local landowner Frank Sayer-Graham. This beautifully designed garden is now Grade II listed and offers a unique “secret garden” experience.
Railways and Reminiscence
By 1846, the railway reached Wensleydale, transforming access and economy. Stations opened in Northallerton, Leyburn, Hawes, and Garsdale among others. While some stations are now closed, efforts continue to preserve and celebrate Wensleydale’s rail heritage.
Why Visit Wensleydale?
Whether you’re exploring ancient ruins, tasting world-famous cheese, hunting for waterfalls, or simply soaking in the tranquillity of the landscape, Wensleydale offers something for everyone. It’s a place where history lives on in the stones of ruined abbeys and the flavours of traditional cheese. A place where nature still takes centre stage, and where every corner holds a new surprise.
Plan your visit today—and fall in love with the soul of the Yorkshire Dales.
Comments